Saturday 11 January 2014

Texture, London

A meal at 'Texture', a Michelin starred restaurant right next to marble arch in London, was bought for me as a Christmas present just over 12 months ago now (therefore I apologise in advance for my distinct lack of memory on certain parts of the meal)!
I had been tempted by Texture restaurant for as long as I can remember, partly due to it's unique focus on Icelandic cuisine and their tendency to discount the use of rich ingredients (such as butter), something so frequently used in other restaurants to add that opulent taste. 
Exterior
 

But predominantly because of their name...'Texture' is a word often used to praise (or indeed criticise) food on many of the cookery competition programmes taking over our evening screen viewing nowadays. It is a vital component of any dish, and has a profound impact upon the way an individual feels about the quality of a plate of food. To call a restaurant 'Texture', I felt it would have to deliver something rather special, above and beyond just great flavours...

Champagne bar
We booked in for a lunchtime - I do love taking advantage of the lunchtime sittings at these kinds of establishments, although lacking the possible finesse of an evening dining experience, you get excellent quality food alongside faultless service, and if you can take advantage of a set lunch menu, this often comes at a fraction of the price too.

Upon entering the restaurant you are welcomed by one of the wait staff who takes your coat - we arrived purposely a little early so we asked if we could sit in their bar for a bit (as opposed to heading straight to our table, which was actually ready). The bar is renowned as having one of the best champagne collections in London (five by the glass, and a further 110 by the bottle), and we decided to each opt for a champagne cocktail - priced at £10. My 'Luxury Mojito' was delicious, and just as the name suggested, the added sparkle of champagne worked perfectly with the sweet brown sugar and sharp lime juice. The cocktails were also accompanied by some complimentary bar snacks, sort of flat crackers of all different flavours, I believe some were seaweed, and others Parmesan, but this was a lovely touch to wet our appetite.

View of the kitchen from our table
After our little aperitif we were shown to our table in the restaurant which I believe was in prime position, right in front of the plating kitchen so we could see the chefs at work, and even had a glimpse or two of the particularly meticulous head chef, Agnar Sverrisson from time to time. The restaurant itself is very grand, obviously an old building with extremely high ceilings, this made the dining area itself feel rather small, but the chatter was fairly loud, a reason I was rather relieved our table was tucked away rather than being in the centre of the dining room.

Bread
Bread was bought to the table first, a sort of chunky rye bread, with creamed butter presented on a large grey pebble. Although very simple, the presentation was effective, and immediately gave me the impression that the food would be simple and rustic with elements of quirky surprise. This was quickly accompanied by an amuse bouche of a tiny cup of squash soup, brimming with bags of flavour and the necessary heat needed for a warming winter treat.

Anjou Pigeon with sweet corn and bacon popcorn
I opted for a starter and main off the a la carte menu, whereas my partner went for the set lunch menu (priced at around £25 for two courses, and £30 for three). I couldn't resist trying the Anjou pigeon, and I certainly was not disappointed - I'd go as far as to say, it is still to this day one of my favourite plates of food. The sweet smooth sweet corn puree went perfectly with the meaty rich pigeon and the added crunch of the salty bacon popcorn complemented the dish without fault.

New season beetroots with goats cheese
The other starter was a cold salad of new season English beetroots with goats cheese snow, while it didn't sound much on the menu, the dish looked as pretty as a picture, complete with edible flowers, and the noises coming from my partner were a sure fire sign that he was enjoying it. He later continued to praise the dish over and over for its simplicity and wonderful flavour combinations, so I knew it must have been an absolute hit!

Icelandic sea cod with pearl barley
Unfortunately the main course is where my memory becomes very hazy (possibly because, as you can see, the dishes are extremely similar and I was silly enough not to photograph the menus!). I am pretty certain that the above dish of Icelandic cod was the option chosen from the set lunch menu and this was accompanied by a creamy puree and pearl barley. The fish just flaked apart and with the other components made for a very clean, and fresh dish.

Poached turbot with sea vegetables
It is, unfortunately my dish where I become increasingly stuck. I would hazard a guess that I ordered turbot - the king of the flat fish. I distinctly remember how succulent the fish was, and full of flavour - something I was surprised (although incredibly happy) to find due to the way it was poached instead of cooked in the typical fatty butters or oils. The sea vegetables were also a wonderful accompaniment very salty and with a distinctive crunch which added an extra element to the dish.

I wish I could remember more about the dish, but unfortunately, for what ever reason, I cannot. Whether that be because of my earlier proposed idea regarding the similarity between the two dishes, or indeed the harsh fact that quite possibly it just wasn't as memorable as the starter or dessert from this restaurant. Either way, I remember it being delicious, really showcasing the fish (as it should be showcased), and without fuss or pretension.

Clementine and cinnamon rice pudding
Being the type of person who would often opt for an extra starter than a dessert I was incredibly surprised at how much I absolutely adored the dessert in Texture. My partner was happy with his two courses, however (purely for research purposes of course!), I managed to convince him to share the Clementine and Cinnamon rice pudding with me, and I did not regret that choice one bit. The rice pudding oozed creamy flavour and the clementine sauce, with whole orange pieces cut through the sweetness of the ice cream and rice brilliantly. The ice cream itself was a lovely contrast as the pudding was served warm, and the addition of little sultanas and sugared pistachios balanced the dish to make it both flavoursome and texturally perfect.

Cracker selection

Cheese and Port
We also opted for a 'Bernard Antony' French cheese plate (priced at £13.50) to share between us, with a glass of port each to wash it down (well you have to finish a meal properly don't you!?). This was lovely, and accompanied by some plump dried fruits and a sweet jelly, as well as more bread and crackers. The selection was well varied with a strong soft cheese (similar to a stinking bishop), a blue cheese and a hard nutty cheese, however I'd have liked to have seen a cheese trolley bought around t add an extra air of excitement rather than the selections and plating happening behind closed doors.

Petit fours
Finally the coffees were accompanied by a selection of petit fours, the traditional madeleine, a sort of peppermint meringue, chocolate truffles and coffee macaroons. All were delicious in their own right, however the meringue was a little strong when you take into account we were drinking a milky coffee. This was made up for by the divine macaroons which finished the meal with a perfectly crisp texture and creamy coffee centre.

Texture is a completely novel dining experience, unlike anything I have ever encountered before. The food was sublime, and it keeping with their Scandinavian brief. They undoubtedly delivered on Texture; an element I have to admit, I was expecting they may fall short upon, however (and I'm still not quite sure whether this is a positive or negative thing) I left feeling like I hadn't over indulged as you often do when you book into a restaurant of this quality. Either way, for the plating, flavours and textures, 'Texture' is an incredibly impressive venue, and one I would highly recommend.

http://texture-restaurant.co.uk/

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